When starting a new garden, whether you have done it many times or never before, it’s important to remember a few basic rules.

• Purpose
• Sun
• Water
• Soil
• Access
• “Pests” & Disease

Purpose:

To begin, we decide on the purpose of our garden. This is the time to be equal parts dreamer and realist. While reading the three categories I’ve listed below, please keep in mind that a combination works wonderfully and my experience has proven that combining an Ecological garden with either of the others benefits everyone.

Ornamental Garden:

In an ornamental garden, plants are primarily grown for their beauty, scent, or shape. For many years, ornamental plants were the mainstay. Grass would be considered ornamental is some applications. These plants are often non-native and require more care and long -term maintenance.

Ecological Garden:

In an ecological garden, plants are chosen based on what they do and where they originated from rather than what they look like. Shape and color are chosen for their impact on wildlife, placement is decided based on the needs of the plant. Native plants require little to no maintenance once established. Subcategories of ecological gardens would include pollinator, bird, and rewilding gardens.

Kitchen or Edible Garden:

In a kitchen garden, plants are chosen based on what the gardener is going to eat. In a Kitchen Garden with an emphasis on biodiversity, a gardener will also choose plants that will support edibles by improving the soil and naturally protect from disease or pests. Subcategories of kitchen gardens would include herb gardens, medicinal gardens, and vegetable gardens.

Sun:

The sun is powerful and glorious – it can also be brutal or completely hidden if it’s blocked by structures or trees. Planning for the sun takes time and patience. Notice where the sun shines and for how long, this will enable you to plan your garden efficiently and doing this before planting will eliminate many headaches in your future.

Regardless of the type of garden you’re planning to create, you will need to know the path of the sun during the growing season. There are different ways to protect or shade your plants from sun that is too intense but there is no easy way to bring more sun to shaded areas. Using shade cloths are a good option for edible plants that need protection from intense sunlight, however, shade cloths require placing and removing; keep this mind if you know that will become cumbersome. I like to use larger/taller plants that need a lot of sun to protect the plants that need less, this method requires intimate knowledge of the sun’s path and some pre-planning but it is a very efficient strategy in the long run.

In an ornamental perennial or ecological application, determining the correct placement before planting is highly encouraged since these plants are expected to remain in place long term. Recently I planted a mix of native and non-native perennials in a border row knowing that some partial-shade plants will receive too much sun the first year but as their companions grow larger they will provide much needed afternoon shade moving forward.

Water:

We must make sure that water is easily accessible to our new garden. There are several options for achieving that goal and, depending on the application, some may be easier than others. Regardless of your opinion on climate change, we can all agree that water is one of our most valuable resources and it must be protected. Having easy access to clean water is not a universal privilege and even in some areas where clean water comes straight out of your tap, the greater good of the community must be considered.

A note about Grass:

I live on Long Island, NY; the top 15 residential water users in my county are properties on the East End who’s irrigation practices nearly empty our water reserve just by watering their enormous lawns in the summer. That is abusive and quite unnecessary from an ecological standpoint. Depending on the intensity of management practices, in addition to abuse of water, the upkeep of grass lawns include herbicides, fertilizers, and emissions from mowers and trimmers. This is one reason why grass lawns are considered an ornamental plant.

In an ecological garden, the need to water is minimal once plants are established. When plants are placed in suitable conditions and environments, they are naturally sustained. This is just one of the benefits of ecological gardening.

In an edible garden, we have a variety of watering methods to choose from. Some of which are more straightforward than others and the best one is whichever we will do consistently.

Overhead Watering:

Overhead watering is meant to mimic rainfall, however, there are some downsides to this method.

• Fungal disease and leaf burn
• Erosion and loss of nutrients
• Evaporation
• Run off and puddling
• Too much can lead to soil diseases like root rot or cause root suffocation
• Increased water waste

Drip Irrigation:

On the other hand, deep watering like in a drip irrigation system has the potential to eliminate many of these issues while increasing the stability of your plants and the depth of their root systems, assisting with weed suppression, and reducing the frequency of the watering schedule (less work, less water).

If drip irrigation sounds like something you want to use, consider the cost of equipment, time to properly plan a system, and a somewhat labor intensive installation process. Many people have systems setup with timers, which have pros and cons, too. Systems with timers must be connected at all times and that might not be possible in the application of your choice. In my situation, I have little kids who use the yard for playing and having hoses setup 24/7 to my gardens just doesn’t make sense so instead I connect/disconnect the system manually only 1-2 times a week, depending on rainfall.

Rain barrels:

Studies show that plants benefit much more from rain water as opposed to tap water, which shouldn’t be too surprising. Rain water provides beneficial minerals that are not always present in tap water, while tap water has often been treated with chlorine, etc. Rain barrels can be expensive to purchase and somewhat complicated to make, depending on the style you choose but the potential upsides are great.

• Reduce water bills
• Conserve water during drought
• Reduce stormwater runoff
• Prevent flooding and soil erosion
• Provide clean water for plants and other uses

Keep in mind that harvested rain water requires specific types of treatment in order to be safe for ingestion, so cooking, drinking, or bathing with it is not recommended. Local laws differ with regard to the legality of rainwater harvesting as well as the amount that you are allowed to harvest, please make sure that you do your due diligence before making an investment.

Soil:

” Better to put a $5 plant in a $50 hole than a $50 plant in a $5 hole.”

My understanding of this popular saying is that the quality of the soil is more important the quality or size of the plant itself. We are (finally) moving away from heavy dependence on synthetic fertilizers and into the golden age of building soil health. Soil health can refer to different factors but the basic idea is that we are taking steps to “build” the soil rather than focusing on “feeding” the plant. If we build the soil, the soil feeds the plant.

Some popular ways to build your soil are:

• Compost
• Natural and Living mulch
• “No Dig” practices
• Organic Fertilizers

Compost:

Compost is not a fertilizer although it is often thought of that way. A simple scoop of compost sprinkled above the roots of a plant can have an enormous beneficial impact by introducing microorganisms/bacterial life to the soil along with the organic matter they’re living in. Bacterial life is essential for plant life; they can act as a shield by outcompeting other potentially harmful microorganisms and they are the powerhouse behind natural decomposition. Depending on the type of microorganisms that are contributing to the breakdown of organic matter, different chemical compounds are introduced to the new soil and supply necessary nutrients to plants. Compost can be purchased or made. Making compost is a cost-effective way of reducing organic waste and carbon emissions while improving your garden. When we add compost to our soil, it increases water retention, suppresses weeds, aerates the soil, and provides essential nutrients to our plants. I will share my journey with composting in another post. In the meantime, check out these fantastic resources:

• Deanna at Homestead and Chill: Composting 101
• Fast Gardening Michigan: 18 Day Compost Method
• Charles Dowding: Making Great Compost

Natural Mulch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilAv8SzB_Aw

If you asked my husband about wood chips, he will roll his eyes and huff a little. Right at this moment, there is a gigantic pile of wood chips in our driveway blocking the basketball hoop and vastly reducing scooter and bicycle riding space. This does not make my family happy.

I have developed a mutually beneficial relationship with an arborist in our area and he drops off a truckload of wood chips periodically. This benefits him so that he doesn’t have to pay to dump the chips at a recycling facility and benefits me because I don’t have to pay for processed chips aka mulch. It also benefits my garden because the chips haven’t been dyed or processed in anyway. A small downside is that chips haven’t been seasoned before they are delivered so you should expect a small percentage of the fresh wood chips to have some greenery included.

If you look up arborists local to your area, it’s likely you’ll find one that would love to drop off wood chips at your property. There is also a brilliant service called Chip Drop which will facilitate the connection with an arborist for you.

Similary, seed head free straw mulch is an excellent form of natural mulch that can be purchased online or at your local nursery. It should be seed head free so that you are not inadvertently planting straw in your garden beds. It does have to be purchased but likely will not block your family’s basketball hoop. Additional benefits include quicker breakdown and nutrient building in your soil. Mainely Mulch by Lucerne Farms has been my go-to for some time. Particularly after a bad experience purchasing a “straw blanket” from a big box store and not reading the label thoroughly. I spent more than an hour separating chopped straw from plastic mesh trying to waste as little as possible. In the end I was covered in a thin layer of straw and left with very little mulch for the cost.

Living mulch is typically a mix of nutrient dense plants that are grown around the perimeter of your plants’ roots and are maintained by the “chop and drop” method. Basically, they’re grown densely to crowd out weeds from taking root, trimmed down to increase air circulation around your plants, and the trimmed material is left to breakdown and feed the soil. Chopping is an important part of this process, as it prevents plants from flowering and going to seed. This is also a great off-season mulching method referred to as cover crop.

No-Dig Practices: “Disturbed soil grows weeds”

https://youtu.be/0LH6-w57Slw?si=aWGhapPpVmvFM98M

No-Dig or No-Till gardening is perhaps the simplest and easiest to practice yet it goes against what so many of us have seen throughout history. One of the most talked about benefits to no-dig gardening is to protect the mycelial network in the soil.

Through this network, plants and trees work together with fungi through a symbiotic relationship to create a shared economy, where ecosystems flourish without greed. They communicate through this system (much like our nervous systems use electrical impulses and electrolytes) and share nutrients, water, and other resources with whoever needs them. Fungal networks also have a biomass recycling program in place, breaking down what humans and other organisms leave behind with the intention of leaving the earth in better shape than when they found it.

Traditionally, the purpose of tilling has been to:

• mix organic matter into your soil
• help control weeds
• break up crusted soil
• loosen up a small area for planting.

When we till the soil, we are essentially planting any weed seeds that may be sitting dormant on the surface. Left undisturbed, these seeds have a much smaller chance of finding their way into the more hospitable conditions underneath. By protecting the soil from evaporation with mulch, we deftly avoid dry, crusted soil that would require tilling in the first place. Additionally, tilling destroys the mycelial network

Layering compost, mulch, and amendments on top of the soil instead of mixing it in, creates a barrier against weeds and evaporation of moisture and builds the soil as they breakdown. With each season, we reapply mulch and compost which become the new layer of protection while the previous layer breaks down into available nutrients – thus building the soil and feeding the plants.

In some instances – like breaking ground on a new garden, a small amount of digging may be necessary but even then, there are easier and more efficient ways to achieve the desired results. If you are preparing a bed for the current season, digging will be necessary. In that case, digging down 12-18 inches, taking care not to leave any grass or weed roots in the soil, and then applying a thick mulch as the last step after planting will mitigate many of the issues that tilling creates.

However, if you are planning in advance – as little as 3 months in advance – using a lasagna method is the simplest way to smother any existing ground cover or weeds and lay the groundwork for your upcoming planting. Lasagna refers to the popular Italian dish that is made by layering different components without actively mixing them. In the garden application, we start first with a layer of cardboard, then green matter like leaves, grass clippings, etc., followed by a layer of straw or wood chips – thoroughly wetting each layer before covering with the next. This is done once or repeated as many times as you like until the area is covered completely. At this point, you may choose to cover the area with a bit of plastic sheeting to encourage quick breakdown, this is called solarizing. After about 6 weeks the cardboard will begin to breakdown and at the 3 month mark it will be possible to begin planting. After this, there is no need to till or dig as the layers breakdown into new soil and plant roots can grow deep, only adding new layers of compost and mulch on the surface to continue enriching and protecting soil from the elements.

Fertilizers:

Synthetic fertilizers are man-made and intended to feed the plants directly. They are generally fast-acting, water-soluble, and nutrient amounts are highly accurate. They are readily available in many different forms including liquid, pellets, stakes, and granule. Because of their potency, there is a high risk of burning plants or lawns at high doses. Additionally, due to their water solubility, run off and leaching can lead to a significant loss of nutrients – up to one third. Synthetic fertilizers are not intended to improve the soil or provide long-term benefits, they are used to quickly green-up the plants or lawn they’re applied to.

Organically derived fertilizers are made of plant and animal waste, biosolids, and mineral matter. Fertilizers derived from organic sources feed both plants and the soil, improve soil structure, and stimulate beneficial microorganisms. They are least likely to burn or damage plants. Organically derived fertilizers promote healthy root growth, soil texture, and a healthy soil ecosystem. Nutrients are released at a rate that plants can use over time which leads to reduced loss. Due to their slow-release nutrients, plant improvement and growth isn’t as immediate as the quick green-up gained from a synthetic fertilizer.

Access:

Garden access can mean a lot of things. Perhaps the most obvious is choosing a location and design that allows you to get to your garden easily. I know myself well enough that making something even somewhat difficult to access will mean that I may never touch it again.

Last year, I converted my children’s plastic wagon into a garden cart and now I can pull all of my fertilizers, hand tools, twine and stakes around with me. This eliminates dozens of trips to the garage for what I need and ALSO ensures that they will be put away at the end of a long, hard day in the garden. I have shut off valves at the end of every hose so that I only have to walk to the main water spigot once at the beginning and then again at the very end.

Accessibility for you might mean having ramps instead of steps or storing tools in a waterproof container right there in the garden. Maybe it’s using tall garden beds to limit bending and kneeling. Vertical gardening or container gardening are excellent choices, as well.

Greenhouses often have a trip-hazard entryway but some brands offer an open entrance. Raised beds with at least 24″ of space beneath allows for gardening in a seated position with room for knee space. Firm, level, well draining paved areas and wide pathways will allow for easy maneuvering in a wheelchair. Specialized tools help to adapt the gardener by reducing effort, maximizing abilities, and encouraging independence. The National Center on Health, Physical Activity and Disability is an excellent resource for more detailed accessible gardening ideas, even down to adapting plants!

“Pests” and Disease:

Pests

By now you may have realized that I lean towards more ecological gardening practices so when I put quotes around the word pests, you may know where we are going already. One of the first lessons I teach my kids about nature is that when we are in nature, we are in the bugs’ home. We cannot enter their home and expect them to leave us alone or vacate. We co-exist by showing compassion, patience, and leaving no trace.

Similarly, when we plant a garden, we should expect to see insects that have a relationship with those plants being in relationship with them. In fact, I would go so far to say that the goal should be to have plants that will support the wildlife in our area. I also understand the pain of finding skeletonized leaves on a prized rose bush or my lilies decimated by scarlet beetles in a single day. No one wants to see swarms of aphids on their milkweed plants or slugs eating the zinnias they started from seed and nurtured all the way into the flower bed. It’s infuriating.

So, am I saying two contradictory things? Maybe. I want to have a successful garden and I want to support native wildlife. In some cases, we might decide to “sacrifice” one of our plants and relocate any caterpillars to the sacrificial plant so the caterpillars can survive but it’s not a free-for-all.

If aphids are a problem, ladybugs can be a solution. If caterpillars are the problem, maybe we just need more birds! Did you know that baby birds can’t eat seeds? Their parents must feed them caterpillars. A popular study by researcher Doug Tallamy found that one chickadee family fed their babies between 350-570 caterpillars each day. More insects, more birds, more toads or garden snakes. Building a small water feature can attract birds and water-loving critters. Desirable nesting areas for birds will attract more bird families. There are so many solutions to your “pest” problems, sometimes more is more!

If critters are a problem, there are simple solutions to prevent them from accessing the garden plants. Fencing, garden cloches for individual plants needing short-term protection, hoops with garden cloth, netting, and if gophers or moles are an issue then you might need to place a wire barrier as the first layer beneath your garden bed.

The least harmful insect pest solution that I have found is Neem oil. It must be mixed correctly, there is a risk of leaves burning in direct sunlight so it must applied in the evening – this also prevents the oil from harming beneficial pollinators. Neem oil can be used as a foliar spray (on the leaves) or as a soil drench, the type of pest will determine the method. Neem oil can be used as a pesticide and fungicide, which brings us to the next topic…

Diseases

Some diseases can be expected under certain situations so we can take measures to avoid it. Many diseases of the fungal variety can be avoided by rotating crops, watering at the roots of the plant, maintaining well-draining soil, and spacing or pruning to encourage air circulation. These are good techniques for several other reasons, as well, so it’s a good place to start.

Purchasing disease-resistant varieties or cultivars that finish earlier in the season can be a great first step to avoiding issues altogether. Inspecting new plants closely before adding them to your garden or bringing them into your home is a great way to catch a problem early. If you feel the effort is worth treating the plant, keep it quarantined until it returns back to health. Otherwise, bring it back to the nursery for an exchange or refund.

When we have to cut back diseased parts of plants, cleaning our tools before using them on a healthy plant is so important. The infected debris should be placed in the trash, not left at the base of the plant or added to compost. Additionally, applying a fungicide like Neem oil mentioned earlier, is a method of treating a disease once it’s already taken hold.

Final Thoughts:

Once we have considered all of these options and put our plan together, it’s time to design! Designing can be one of the most intimidating aspects of starting a garden. I will follow up with a design & layout post that will help you to figure out how detailed you want to get with your garden plan and how to put it into action.

The most important thing to remember is that a garden should be meant for our enjoyment and health. There are few decisions that are made in the beginning that can’t be changed or fixed later on if it doesn’t work. Plants are forgiving and resilient, most importantly – they want to grow! Gardening is a practice; if we show up to gardening with that mindset then we can let go of the pressure to achieve perfection.

I hope you found this article useful and inspired you to start a new garden. Always feel free to reach out in the comments with questions, feedback, or just to say hi. Let me know what’s going on in your garden! Also feel free to share this article with your friends. Thank you for stopping by!